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Welcome back to the channel, today we're 
going to swap the differential on the chaser 
to a mechanical limited slip differential

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but before that let's take a look at what's 
already on the car

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spinning the wheels it looks like the current 
differential is a Torsen design

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you can tell by the fact there is a slight 
delay between spinning the wheel and seeing 
the other wheel turn

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compared to the response you would expect 
if this was a regular open differential

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The exhaust has already been removed from 
the car

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as you can see there is a bit of rust on 
the rear cross-member here

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so we will have to apply some rust converter 
to treat this later

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The rubber mountings here are also torn so 
I will be replacing these with new ones

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with all that said, lets get into it.

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Disconnecting the propeller shaft from the 
differential

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After opening the drain plug on the differential 
I move on to removing the rear member supports 
and rear stabilizers

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replace the plug once most of the oil has 
drained

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undoing the connections between the drive 
shafts and the differential

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followed by the bolts connecting the differential 
and the rear mounting

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after securing the differential with a jack 
I remove the front mount

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and lower the differential out of the car

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a slide hammer and adapter is used to pull 
out the drive shaft flanges

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opening up the case we can pull out the gear 
set and remove any remaining oil

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With the case set aside to drain I'll remove 
the ring gear

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Any parts to be reused are given a clean

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and any remaining oil and gasket material 
is also scrubbed off

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Cleaning the remainder of the parts

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Removing the leftover gasket material from 
the case

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before giving the casing itself a quick clean

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After sanding down the worst of the rust 
I applied some rust converter and allowed 
it to dry overnight

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removing the bearing

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before cleaning it in preparation to be reused

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I opted for Tomei's T-Trax Advance, the base 
design is from KAAZ but has been modified 
by Tomei for enhanced performance and durability

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this design boasts an incredibly rigid body 
as well as containing many more clutch plates 
than a regular LSD

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reducing the amount of wear and stress on 
each plate

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meaning that when correctly installed and 
maintained regularly you can expect it to 
last a very long time

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I have used this product in racing applications 
before and have never had to pull one apart 
for an overhaul

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that being said lets get to installing it 
on the car.

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Pressing the bearings back on to the differential

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after a quick clean I apply some threadlocker 
to the ring gear bolts

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before cleaning the ring gear itself in preparation 
for the next step

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where I heat the ring gear and bolts for 
around 30 minutes

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after which I reassemble the ring gear onto 
the differential

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and torque down the bolts to their manufacturer's 
specifications

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replacing the oil seals for the side flanges

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fitting the differential back into its casing

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checking the backlash on the ring gear

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the backlash was slightly out so I had to 
make some adjustments

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backlash here is the amount of play between 
the gear teeth

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and is necessary to enable the smooth operation 
of the gears

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however, if the amount of play is too great 
it can lead to premature wear

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or even damage and or failure, which means 
that getting the right amount of backlash 
dialed in is very important

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with the backlash sorted, it's time to look 
at the contact between the gear teeth

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if there is an issue here it can lead to 
the differential producing a lot of noise

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and in extreme cases the cracking of the 
gear itself

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so it is important to check this thoroughly 
to ensure everything is working as it should

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everything here seemed fine so we're good 
to go

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some liquid gasket is applied to the mating 
surfaces

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after wiping the cover down with some degreaser 
it's bolted back onto the casing

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applying some lubricant to the side flange 
oil seals

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hammering in one of the side flanges

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with the rust converter on the rear now dry 
I can replace the differential mounts

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after pushing out both the old rubber mounts 
with some help from a puller and my hammer

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I apply some rust prevention spray to the 
areas that will hold the new mounts

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and push them in before it has time to dry 
completely

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there is a set orientation for these so be 
sure to check the direction they are facing 
before putting these in

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with the new mounts in I give the rear member 
a coat of rust prevention paint

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filling the differential with approximately 
1.8L of differential oil

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before lubricating the remaining side flange 
seal

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and hammering in the flange itself

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with the differential all back together it's 
ready to go back on the car

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once the differential is secured I move on 
to connecting the various parts

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connecting the rear stabilizers

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and the drive shafts

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now all that is left is to re-attach the 
propeller and drive shafts

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however, here's a tip for if you're ever 
doing something like this

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there are six bolts in connecting each flange 
to their drive shaft, however you'll find 
that because the shafts can turn

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it can be very hard to torque the bolts down 
properly

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if you pull on the hand brake, like you can 
see me doing here grabbing the cable underneath 
the car,

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it will hold the shafts in place and allow 
you to tighten the bolts properly down to 
around 84.3Nm

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all these parts form part of the drive train 
and need to be tightened correctly

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I hope this video has been helpful!

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I really enjoy putting these videos together 
as a chance to introduce people to the joy 
of cars and

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if you found this video enjoyable or helpful, 
please feel free to leave a like, comment 
or subscribe to the channel

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I look forward to seeing you again in the 
next video!

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Preview

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Ride along with a top class girl drifter

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